Despite the beauty that Cappadocia offers, these steep cliffs and deep valleys make for an interesting drive into the outlying countryside. Today we traveled by rental car in order to reach two rock-cut churches that sit high above a valley known as Zemi Deresi. The small Fiat made a valient effort to chug its way up the dusty dirt roads pocked with potholes until we had to abandon the conveniences of modern travel and continue our way up the ridge on foot.
We first met the challenges of Karabalut Kilise, whose only entrance is located about twenty feet off the ground and faces an ominous drop into the valley below. With the help of local guides, a very strong climbing rope, and a healthy dose of courage and luck, our team successfully climbed the rock face to enter the church. Though hard to reach – and honestly a little frightening to climb – Karabalut’s intriguing interior fresco program rewarded our efforts.
After our triumphal exit from Karabalut, we headed toward the nearby church known as Sarniç. The small Byzantine church was adapted in the 1950s to serve as a local water cistern. Water damage has removed the bottom ten to fifteen feet of the church’s interior frescoes and has left only the upper registers of the decorative program. The damp moss that covers the floor provided a nice cushion to our tired feet as we observed and documented the figures and decorative motifs of the church.
We ended our day in the field where we began it; among the natural beauty and oddity of Cappadocia’s landscape. As we hiked the Zemi Deresi we came across stubborn tortioses, apple blossoms, and waves of tuff and limestone. On our return hike uphill to the tiny Fiat, we were also given a clear view of the impressive snow-peaked apex of the Hasan Dağı in the distance.
The work continues as we decipher our findings and observations. We have many plans to draw, comparisons to make, and figures to identify as our hunt for Anastasia continues. Stay tuned for tomorrow’s adventures; we head toward Ihlara in the Peristrema valley to visit as many as twelve more churches. Come check-in with us tomorrow for news of our findings!
